They're lightly built with shallow rims and though thought quite loud in the period, no match for a more modern banjo in the volume dept. Stewarts often suffer from "tinnyness" and really need a bit of stuffing to mellow them out. Unless you have a high-end collectible (which you don't), messing about with it should not be a worry. So, you pays yer money and you takes yer chances. It has held up perfectly for some 30 yrs now. My first Stewart (an Orchestra #2) was purchased early on as a basket-case and in my naïveté, I put geared tuners and medium-gauge steel strings on it. Banjos with thicker, heavier necks and/or shorter necks can often handle the extra stress of steels. However, there are many, many exceptions. They weren't really designed for steel and there have been quite a few damaged (bowed, twisted) by the extra tension of steel over the decades. The answer is "it depends".įor the generic standard-sized banjo of the period, I usually recommend going with nylon, nylgut or gut. Sorry, I neglected to address the steel string question. Take care all, Dave :-)Įbay.com%2Fsch%" target="_blank">/ One last question I paid $500.00 even for it and was wondering if that was too much? Again thanks for all of your input oh yea and thanks for the information on the neck Noah, I greatly appreciate that. One interesting thing about it is that on the wooden back-brace there is a "2d grade" stamp, which you cannot see in the pictures, but the amount of brackets, being 24, do not jive with the 20 on the chart for the grade 2? I included some photos.
It is a nice little banjo though and I will probably keep it and enjoy playing it. The pot measured 10" it has 20 frets and 24 brackets I was a little disappointed by these facts since it puts it in the category "for ladies' use" and I was hoping that it was a full-size one. Thanks Marc, I kind of figured the neck length was from the nut to the pot because when I measured it it was a dead-on 17".
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